Bulb FAQs
- Should I apply mulch? How deep? When?
- Mulch is not required but it is often beneficial.
Three inches is plenty. Wait until the ground
cools down. Contrary to popular notions, mulching
over bulbs is meant to retain soil moisture and
keep the ground temperatures cool and stable,
not to serve as a "warm winter blanket"
(except in the very coldest climates). Mulch just
before the ground freezes. Applying mulch too
early in the season, when the ground is still
soft and warm, can invite infestations by field
mice and other critters who like to burrow in
to establish winter quarters (and no doubt dig
up tasty tulip treats!).
- Should I fertilise bulbs?
- If you're planting bulbs for only one
year's bloom, fertiliser is not needed. Bulbs already carry
a season's supply of food in the moist tissue
surrounding the embryonic flower. For bulbs that
you will naturalise or perennialise, you have
the following options:
At autumn planting time:
For first year's bloom, no fertiliser is needed.
For naturalised bulbs after the first season,
there are three good options:
A good organic compost or well-rotted cow manure
worked into the soil when planting and a mulch
of this material,
A slow-release bulb food,
A combination of bone meal and an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10(NPK),
fast-release soluble fertiliser (about one tablespoon
per square foot).
In spring:
Again, for first year blooms, no fertiliser is
needed.
For naturalised plantings or perennialising plants,
fertiliser considerations are:
Nothing further is needed if last autumn you applied
well-rotted cow manure or a slow release bulb
food.
If you used bone meal and a fast-release fertiliser,
you will want to apply a nitrogen-rich fast-release
NPK fertiliser in the spring just as the shoots
first emerge from the soil (which would be about
6 weeks prior to bloom).
- Is it true that bone meal is the best bulb food?
- Once upon a time, bone meal was considered an
excellent bulb fertiliser, but times have changed!
Most bone meal today has been so thoroughly processed
that the essential nutrients have been literally
boiled out. Spring-flowering bulbs actually need
no fertiliser for their first season of blooming.
A healthy Dutch bulb will already contain all
the food it needs to support one season of spectacular
growth. Bulbs that will be left in the ground
to naturalise will benefit from well-rotted cow
manure or special bulb fertiliser when the shoots
first appear in spring and again the following
autumn.
- I have seen the same variety of bulb priced very differently, some very cheap and others quite expensive. What's the difference?
- In the auctions in Holland, bulbs are gauged by
their calibre, or the measurement of the bulb's
circumference. For each particular variety: more
mature bulbs are larger and garden bigger flowers.
These demand a higher price. For high-profile
bed plantings, it's worth the higher price for
the more mature, "showier" bulbs. But younger
(smaller calibre) bulbs, which are often sold
at lower prices, can offer a great way of adding
colour to large areas or marginal areas of the
yard where they can be left in place to naturalise
and mature, thus gaining in size over time.
A note: for quality control reasons, the Dutch
do not export bulbs below certain established
calibre's. For instance, tulips must be
10 cm or larger or the Dutch will not export them.
This means that if you see tulip bulbs for sale
that are smaller than 10 cm, they are not from
Holland. No exceptions are allowed... except for
species tulips, which are naturally sized smaller.
- I've been told to plant bulbs in clusters - why is this important?
- Groups of bulbs make a much nicer show than individual
"soldiers marching single file." To
create greater colour impact in the garden, plant
clusters of same-colour flowers together in blocks
or "bouquets." One trick: try positioning
similar bulbs in a triangular planting pattern
in the garden, with the point of the triangle
towards the front and the long leg towards the
back. The result: it will look as if you planted
more flowers than you did.
- How soon do I plant my bulbs?
- Usually bulbs can be planted upon arrival. Summer flowering bulbs, such as Dahlia, Canna and Begonia etc. can be either potted or stored in a frost-free environment until the colder weather has subsided. Spring flowering bulbs, including Tulips, Crocus and Daffodils can be planted any time between September and December.
A tip: the proper time to plant is when ground
temperature is below 13°C at planting depth
(while this is not easy for most of us to gauge,
it gives you some notion of what's appropriate).
If you don't have six weeks lead-time, plant any
way even if you have to hack your way through
hard, chilled surface soil. (As always, be sure
to water.) The key: you must plant in autumn to
have blooms in spring. Even if planted late, bulbs
will spring into action and try to start root
growth. They are pre-programmed to grow and will
do their best no matter how late you plant them.
- When do bulb growers in the Netherlands plant their bulbs?
- Growers in the Netherlands plant their bulbs in
November. They can do this because winters in
the Netherlands never really start until mid-December.
In regions where the winter starts earlier, it
would be advisable to plant tulips in October.
- What is the Flower Bulbs Quality Mark Foundation Holland (SKBH)?
- The Flower Bulbs Quality Mark Foundation Holland
is a foundation that was established to offer
consumers an independent sounding board for any
complaints that might arise. You can thus contact
this foundation if your bulbs have not provided
the desired results. Sending a photo along with
a complaint is not obligatory but can definitely
support your position. You can also submit a complaint
if the bulbs you purchased produced flowers other
than those indicated on the packaging. Just make
sure, however, that the SKBH logo appears on the
packaging.
- In which country are dahlias cultivated?
- Dahlias are cultivated primarily in the Netherlands.
Most of these growers are located around the Bulb
Research Centre (LBO) and companies that select
new varieties. Other regions where dahlias are
cultivated are the western coasts of France and
the United States.
- Are there really so many crop protection agents used in the bulb-growing sector?
- The use of crop protection agents for bulb cultivation
has dropped dramatically over the last ten years.
Both research efforts and commercial practices
have shown that it is possible to produce bulbs
by relying much less on these agents than was
previously assumed. This not only benefits the
environment but also decreases the growers'
costs. By applying a perfect balance of fertilisers,
the bulbs receive sufficient nutrients while much
smaller quantities of hazardous substances are
discharged into surface waters. Where preventive
spraying for such problems as fungi used to be
the norm, today's practices advocate spraying
only when necessary. Where possible, many bulb-growing
companies are beginning to use organic means to
prevent diseases and pests.
- Why are tulips grown in Holland of all places?
- Tulips were introduced into the Netherlands at
the end of the 16th century by Carolus Clusius.
People in the Netherlands were quick to take
an interest in these bulbs and started experimenting
with growing them in the gardens around their
homes. Because the demand for tulips grew, an
increasingly professional approach was devoted
to their cultivation, and it turned out that
the coastal area - and especially the strip
of land just inside the Dutch dunes - had the
perfect conditions for this. The marine climate
with its mild winters and cool summers, proper
drainage with a consistent water level, the right
type of soil and the fact that the Netherlands
was a centre of trade were all very beneficial
factors. With the increasing urbanisation occurring
in the traditional bulb growing regions, the
most important growing areas today are located in the
northern regions of the Netherlands where there
is still enough land available for bulb growing.
This will assure their cultivation in the Netherlands
for a long time to come.
- What are the dates for the Ice Saints' days and why are these dates important?
- The Ice Saints' days recognised in certain
European countries are 11, 12, 13 and 14 May.
These are the saints' days for four saints:
St. Mamertus, St. Pankratius, St. Servatius and
St. Bonifacius. Because three is a holy number,
however, one of these (either St. Mamertus'
day on 11 May or St. Bonifacius' day on
14 May) has been eliminated, depending on the
country in question. The Ice Saints' days
indicate the end of the chance of frost even though
long ago, ground frosts still occurred after these
days. In general, the arrival of these dates signifies
that it is safe to plant summer-flowering bulbs.
- Are there bulbs that scare off mice and/or rats?
- Unfortunately, no bulbs have the capacity to really
scare off mice or rats. There are a few precautionary
measures that can be taken to keep these pests
from eating your bulbs, however. First, plant
the bulbs deeply enough and cover them properly
with soil so that mice and/or rats are not attracted
to the planting site. Secondly, cover the border
where the bulbs have been planted with some finely
meshed wire netting. Lay out this netting so that
it more than covers the border and then insert
the edges slightly into the soil.
- Why do we have to pay VAT?
- We supply our bulbs to a large cross section of users, many of which are large companies, local authorities, contractors or organizations. We have to keep Value Added Tax separate for these customers and not include it as most retailers would. Now we offer our bulbs to private users and we will treat these orders as we would those from our commercial customers.
- Why does delivery cost £10.00?
- Again, we are a wholesale supplier and not a mail order company. We do not
absorb any of the packaging or delivery costs in to our products as many mail
order companies would. Bulbs are heavy items and most orders we dispatch are
very large making them too heavy for general postage. We use carriers such as
Fed Ex and Nightfreight who both offer excellent service, usually catering for
any special delivery requirements you may have.
- What if I can’t plant my bulbs immediately?
- If you are unable to plant straight away then most bulbs will keep for several weeks so long as boxes are unpacked, any paper bag should be opened and good air circulation provided. A cool garage or garden shed would be the ideal place to store any unplanted bulbs. Do bear in mind that once a planting season has been missed, your bulbs will not keep for the next season.
- What is the best planting method?
- There are many easy ways to plant bulbs depending on the type of bulb or
the effects you are looking for. Use a trowel or a bulb planter for planting
individually or in small groups. Bulb planters can be bought from most garden
centers. The handles from broken garden forks or spades can be kept and
transformed into ideal bulb dibbers. Mass or ‘carpet’ planting
can be achieved by digging trenches. Smaller bulbs such as Crocus can be
planted among grass by simply lifting the turf and laying back over the scattered bulbs.
- How deep and how far apart?
- There is no exact science to planting bulbs. A general rule of thumb
that applies to most bulbs is to plant at least 2-3 times the depth of
the bulb (we don't need to mention the roots should be facing downwards).
The distance between the bulbs depends on the size of the flower. They
really want to be far enough apart to not be touching each other.
Natural effects can be achieved from scattering by hand and planting
where the bulbs land (ideal for Crocus, Daffodils and Specie Tulips).
If you are unsure how many bulbs are needed to fill a square metre, refer to our planting guide.
- Will the bulbs need to be fed to encourage flowering?
-
No, a bulb holds all the food reserves it needs to come into flower. Any bulbs you wish
to retain after flowering will then benefit from a top dressing of bone meal or any slow
acting fertilizer. Do not remove or tie up the dying foliage as all the goodness will
need to go back into the bulb.
Any bare rooted plants we supply, such as Eremurus, Agapanthus or Dicentra would flower
better after a small feeding as they are not bulbs and therefore do not hold the food reserves.
- Why have my Tulips not grown very well in their second year?
-
Many people treat Tulips they would annuals by lifting and disposing of them
after flowering. If you wish to keep the bulbs, feed after flowering, lift
once the stems have died right down and store somewhere dry and airy. Discard
the smaller 'bulbils' and replant the larger ones in the autumn.
- How do I protect my bulbs from rodents?
-
Only a handful of bulbs attract squirrels and mice, particularly Crocus
and sometimes Tulips. Electronic devices, inaudible to humans and pets
can now be bought very cheaply and are very effective. Alternatively, wire
mesh placed over the bulbs will stop any digging but still allow shoots to
come through.
- Highlands and Islands
-
Deliveries to off shore islands, Northern Ireland and parts of the Scottish highlands
may incur additional delivery charges which we will have to charge at cost. Please contact
us for a quotation.
We are unable to deliver outside the U.K.
